Pan de Muerto
Pan de Muerto…tumbas 🇲🇽… masas fermentadas (fermented doughs) … In mid-October 2008, I had the opportunity to partake in a bakery reconnaissance mission in Monterrey, in the state of Nuevo León, Mexico. I refer to this particular city in Mexico, where tradition and culture meet its match in gastronomic wealth. Known for its cabrito or roasted goat delicacy, Nuevo Leon gives meaning and appreciation to the use of quality ingredients. Given the time of year with Day of the Dead around the corner (November 1st and November 2nd), Pan de Muerto was on the agenda, as celebrations were well underway. However, it was the floral experience of bittersweet orange and aged butter flavor that caught my undivided attention. The soft, buttery texture of the Pan de Muerto was only secondary to the orange blossom water and citrus accents. These breads are typically the edible focal point in a tribute or celebration of the deceased in what is referred to as an ofrenda or offering. Although the deceased cannot eat the bread, they can celebrate and absorb the essence of the citrus notes as the living enjoy the texture. It is that moment where bread is broken amongst the living and the dead. There are different shapes of Pan de Muerto but today we will focus on the rounds and oblong tumbas (tombs). The strips represent the bones of the deceased with the skull as a topper. Traditionally, the tumbas are decorated with sesame seeds over an egg wash canvas, or brushed with butter then tossed in sugar. In certain regions of Mexico, the pink sugar represents a child tomb, whereas the white sugar an adult tomb. Although it’s tradition to use orange peel, today we used the grated peel of tangerines. The bright red-orange peel from the tangerines add to the vibrant experience as we near the celebration of the dead.
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Alex Peña
“Baking is the most rewarding part of my culinary experiences.”